Smithy Granite Clutch and Driven Pulley Bearing Replacement

By , on January 24th, 2012

New contributor Jay Bolyard did an outstanding job describing how to make this repair.  — Rob, editor & chief floor sweeper.

This article describes how to replace the Smithy Granite 1324 Classic Combo Lathe-Mill-Drill’s ball bearings in its driven pulley.  The bearing may have to be replaced if it makes a noise like the one described below.

If….

  • Machine makes a bearing gone bad noise – you know it when you hear it – a zzZZzzZZzzZZ sound at low to medium speed – may not be able to distinguish the noise at higher speeds [Hear it in a .mp4 video]
  • The noise occurs in all three drive modes: lathe, mill and neutral (occurring in neutral is the key)
  • The noise occurs with and without the lead / feed gearing engaged
  •  The noise does not occur with the belt taken off
  •  The noise seems to come from the clutch and driven pulley area when machine is run with pulley box open

Then….

  • The ball bearing inside the driven pulley or the clutch bearing in the shifter fork (or both) are likely in distress and the source of the noise
  • They either need to be re-greased – or – since you’ve got it all apart – best to just replace them with permanently lubricated and shielded bearings

A few unique tools and a few supplies that are needed in completing this work

  • Large snap ring pliers – larger than most people have in their toolbox – must be capable of up to 4″ shaft – Like these found at Grainger Item 3JXL9 - Large Snap Ring Pliers at Grainger
  • Propane torch
  • 2-ft long 1/2″ threaded rod – with (3) matching hex nuts and (3) 1/2″ fender washers
  • Grease – I used Amsoil Multipurpose Synthetic Grease
  • Screwdrivers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Wrenches
  • Rags
  • Parts schematics for reference
  • Access to an arbor or shop press – A mallet could be used if great care was taken – your decision
  • Approximately 5″ square and 2″ x 12″ pieces of wood – whatever is available – photos below show usage

Homemade or Hardware and Auto Parts store supplies

  • 2.33-2.45″ ID x ( 21/4″ long tube or equivalent tooling pre-made with lathe for use in pressing off the old and on the new clutch bearing.  (2″ Schedule 40 white PVC Drain Coupler – can be used instead – $1 at hardware store)
  • 2.8-3.1″ OD ( 1/4″ thick plate or 2.8-3.1″ OD tube ( 11/2″  long or equivalent tooling pre-made with lathe for use in pressing out the old pulley bearing.  (3″ ID to 3″ OD exhaust pipe adapter – can be used instead – $3 at auto parts store)
  • Two #8 x 1″ long machine screws (or pins ~ 5/32″ dia)
  • Two M5 x 0.8 bolts – at least 25mm long – easier if longer – suggest grinding/filing the tips smooth/flat to decrease face marking on the right coupler (G03-005)
  • 3.80-3.90″ OD ( 1/4″ thick plate or 3.75-3.90″ OD tube ( 1″ long or equivalent tooling pre-made with lathe for use in pressing in the new pulley bearing – I made it on a friends lathe because mine was already apart… (3″ grey PVC Electrical Coupler came close to working – needed to turn about 0.1″ dia. off  1/2″ of one end)

New Bearings

  •  1 – # 6011ZZ (2Z) – 55x90x18mm (Clutch Bearing). Minimum ABEC-3 with C3 clearance.  Choose ZZ (double shielded) vs. original open/open design to avoid need to periodically grease and keep contamination out of the bearing.  Cost depends on brand chosen – I chose Nachi-Japan.
  • 1 – # 6013ZZ (2Z) – 65x100x18mm (Pulley Bearing).  Minimum ABEC-3 with C3 clearance.  Again, choose ZZ (double shielded) vs. original single shielded design to avoid need to periodically grease and keep contamination out of the bearing.  Lack of good grease and the former machine owner keeping the belt tension engaged when not in use is likely what caused my bearing to fail.  Again – I chose Nachi-Japan.
    Continue reading → Smithy Granite Clutch and Driven Pulley Bearing Replacement

January 24th, 2012 | Category: Mods | Leave a comment

Free 2012 Calendar Featuring Southbend Lathes

By , on January 7th, 2012

I came across a nice 2012 calendar that you can download (PDF) and print out.  It’s free and it features pictures of South Bend lathes.  I don’t have a color printer but looks good even when printed out on my black and white laser printer.   It was created by Gunsmith David Smith.

January 7th, 2012 | Category: Resources | Leave a comment

Retractable pen made from 30-06 bullet casings

By , on January 6th, 2012

I think this is a cool project and the video may teach you some new machining or fabrication methods even if you don’t want to make a retractable pen out of a couple of empty 30-06 bullet casings.

The pen looks like it’s pretty easy to make.  The hardest part might be getting a couple of bullet casings without spending much.  It looks like you can buy small quantities of used cartridges on Etsy for less than $10.  You might want to also try asking nicely at your local gun shop or on Craigslist.

You may also have trouble finding the exact same pen if you’re in the US.  I’ve never seen one like it and the designer is working in millimeters, which means he’s probably in Europe or Canada.  But if you’re able to play with machine tools then you probably won’t have any problem finding a good substitute.

By the way, it looks like he made it on a 7×12  mini-lathe, which are pretty affordable and popular with home machinists.  I’ve got one and really like it, and I still use it a lot even though I have a bigger and better lathe now.

January 6th, 2012 | Category: Projects & Ideas | Leave a comment

Heart Valves, Digital Levels and Happy Holidays.

By , on December 19th, 2011
My new workbench uses metal shelving units and laminated countertops. I used deckboards to help support the countertops and boards that sit between them and the basement walls. The boards create some more overhang at the front (toe kick) and bridge a gap I had to leave in the back because of a drainage channel along the walls. I tried leveling the countertops with wood shims but it didn't go well. So I removed one of the countertops and started leveling the boards with paper from old catalogs and magazines (that blue stuff is masking tape). I finally realized my Harbor Freight digital level wasn't accurate. Read the article to find out why you shouldn't buy one.

My new workbench uses shelving units and laminated countertops. I used deckboards to help support the countertops and some boards between them and the basement walls. The boards create some more overhang at the front (toe kick) and bridge a gap I had to leave in the back because of a perimeter drainage channel. I tried leveling the countertops with wood shims but it didn't go well. So I removed one of the countertops and started leveling the boards with paper from old catalogs and magazines (that blue stuff is masking tape). I finally realized my Harbor Freight digital level wasn't accurate. Read the article to find out why you shouldn't buy one.

The worry level is pretty high at my house right now because my 30-year old stepdaughter is getting a heart valve replaced tomorrow.  We knew she had a “minor” and somewhat common mitral valve defect but she didn’t have any problems with it until just a couple of weeks ago.  We hope it goes well because we have two young grandchildren who need a healthy mom.

I have no room in my workshop

There’s also another reason why I haven’t gotten much work done in my workshop or added much to MachinistBlog or MachinistVideos lately.  We’re having some major remodeling done and our contractor has finally finished taking over my garage workshop with his tools and materials.  As a result I haven’t had room out there for awhile to work on my CNC router.  So I’ve been concentrating on getting my new “winter” workshop in our basement finished.

I have only one major task left before I can start using it.  That’s to install a couple of 10-foot long laminated countertops that are mitered to join in a corner.  My contractor said that to get a good joint the two pieces have to be perfectly level and I’ve been having a lot of problems getting them that way.

The countertops are on heavy-duty shelving units that can also be assembled as workbenches.  There’s a small variation in their height and they’re sitting on a basement floor that’s not very level.  To make a long story short I have to do a lot of leveling over a 20-foot distance and I wasted hours of work before I realized my digital level wasn’t accurate any more.  I bought it at Harbor Freight because it was inexpensive, it had much greater resolution than a standard construction level and it had a built-in laser that I thought might be useful.

DO NOT BUY Harbor Freight’s Digital Level Model 93884

I checked and it was very accurate when it was new.  But it’s out of warranty now and it can’t be easily recalibrated like many other digital levels.  You can typically place them on a fairly level surface, press the recalibrate button, turn the level exactly 180 degrees on the same spot and press the button again.  They can then determine true level.  The Harbor Freight digital level can’t do that and it has to be recalibrated by a “qualified technician.”  I wasted another couple of hours unsuccessful searching the net and trying button combinations to see if I could find a way to calibrate it myself.  So do not buy the Harbor Freight 24-inch digital level model 93884!

Oops

I then switched to using my 8-inch Starrett machinist level on top of a much longer construction level.  It’s extremely accurate and so sensitive you can easily see the difference in height caused by a very thin piece of paper.  They cost about $120, so I was heartbroken when I managed to drop it a few inches and ruin it by cracking its vial.

iPod Touch to the Rescue?

So now my plan is to use my iPod Touch.  It has a couple of digital level apps on it that are very fast and sensitive.  But it’s not long enough and the back of its case is a little rounded.  So I’m going to attach it to my construction level with double-sided tape and if necessary, bed the edges in Play-Doh if it needs more support.  Then I’m going to calibrate it for true level using the method I described earlier.  I’ll probably use the Clinometer that comes with AppBox Pro, a $1.99 collection of useful apps that I like because it includes the best tip calculator I’ve ever found.

I just have to find (make?) some time to finish the job.  If you’re a regular reader you probably know that I’ve been unusually busy with my job, family and yard work.  Things have finally begun slowing down and I’m getting caught up.  But to be honest I’m tired and a little burnt-out.  I’ve also got a bunch of relatives and good friends who are going to be in town visiting next week.  So I may take some time to relax and goof-off if things go well with my daughter.

Happy Holidays

I want to wish you all Happy Holidays, Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah,  Joyous Kwanzaa, Happy Festivus and a Happy New Year. (Yes, I do try to be PC – Polite and Considerate to all).

December 19th, 2011 | Category: Workshops | 7 comments
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