<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: The Mini-Mill Head Drop Problem</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.machinistblog.com/the-mini-mill-head-drop-problem/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.machinistblog.com/the-mini-mill-head-drop-problem/</link>
	<description>Plans, projects and how-to&#039;s for home machinists</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 23:24:11 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: Neil</title>
		<link>http://www.machinistblog.com/the-mini-mill-head-drop-problem/comment-page-1/#comment-4617</link>
		<dc:creator>Neil</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Oct 2010 21:06:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.machinistblog.com/?p=82#comment-4617</guid>
		<description>I to have dealt with the &quot;head drop&quot; with the instillation of the LMS.  Took about 1.5 hours and has limited but not eliminated the problem. I still lock the head before milling and have modified a Harbor Fright Digital hight gage for Z reed out.
Neil</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I to have dealt with the &#8220;head drop&#8221; with the instillation of the LMS.  Took about 1.5 hours and has limited but not eliminated the problem. I still lock the head before milling and have modified a Harbor Fright Digital hight gage for Z reed out.<br />
Neil</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Steve Wan</title>
		<link>http://www.machinistblog.com/the-mini-mill-head-drop-problem/comment-page-1/#comment-2462</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve Wan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jul 2010 07:12:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.machinistblog.com/?p=82#comment-2462</guid>
		<description>Hi all

I too faced the same problem using my Sherline mill. What Rob suggested of feeding downwards and moving up again is by far the best method for small mills...I have been doing that since. The mill finish is great also bear in mind all axis x and y must be locked. The moving axis must be snug for feed movement only.

Good luck!
Steve wan -Singapore</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi all</p>
<p>I too faced the same problem using my Sherline mill. What Rob suggested of feeding downwards and moving up again is by far the best method for small mills&#8230;I have been doing that since. The mill finish is great also bear in mind all axis x and y must be locked. The moving axis must be snug for feed movement only.</p>
<p>Good luck!<br />
Steve wan -Singapore</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jerry</title>
		<link>http://www.machinistblog.com/the-mini-mill-head-drop-problem/comment-page-1/#comment-2138</link>
		<dc:creator>Jerry</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Jun 2010 02:35:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.machinistblog.com/?p=82#comment-2138</guid>
		<description>How about replacing the spring arm/gas strut/counterweight ideas we&#039;ve seen with a cable drum on the DP handle, with the right counterweight the handle will be providing the lifting force to counterbalance the head weight, less counterweighting will be needed because of the mechanical advantage the rack and pinion gives (depending on the diameter of the drum), and the pinion gear will held be in contact with the top surface of the rack teeth at all times?

This won&#039;t help snatching during drilling with the DP handle, as the required force may overcome the head weight resulting in the pinion passing to the underside of the rack teeth, but with a speed handle on the fine feed this may be OK?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>How about replacing the spring arm/gas strut/counterweight ideas we&#8217;ve seen with a cable drum on the DP handle, with the right counterweight the handle will be providing the lifting force to counterbalance the head weight, less counterweighting will be needed because of the mechanical advantage the rack and pinion gives (depending on the diameter of the drum), and the pinion gear will held be in contact with the top surface of the rack teeth at all times?</p>
<p>This won&#8217;t help snatching during drilling with the DP handle, as the required force may overcome the head weight resulting in the pinion passing to the underside of the rack teeth, but with a speed handle on the fine feed this may be OK?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Frank Marshall</title>
		<link>http://www.machinistblog.com/the-mini-mill-head-drop-problem/comment-page-1/#comment-1085</link>
		<dc:creator>Frank Marshall</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:22:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.machinistblog.com/?p=82#comment-1085</guid>
		<description>Hi there,

A very well written and interesting article.  Thank you for taking the time to assist others, like me, who are considering a Mini-Mill.

Another solution, that springs to mind, is to add another rack gear or slit the existing one and mount alongside and tension one against the other.  This is a classic way of removing backlash.  You could add a belleville washer too to make it smoother.

Please note that this suggestion is offered without me having ANY knowledge of the available local space or mounting of the rack.  The local features may make this kind of idea easy...or, indeed, impossible! :)

Often anti-backlash gears have two pinions side by side with a spring torquing them together so that&#039;s, yet, another possibility.

I&#039;d be interested to know if there is sufficient space and features which would make the twin rack suggestion possible.  The answer might influence my Mini-Mill purchase decision.

Finally, I&#039;ve talked to UK suppliers of many many Mini-Mills and they say that they hear of few problems of &#039;head dropping&#039; so maybe some folk just get used to a set operating procedure as a work around.

Cheers

Frank</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi there,</p>
<p>A very well written and interesting article.  Thank you for taking the time to assist others, like me, who are considering a Mini-Mill.</p>
<p>Another solution, that springs to mind, is to add another rack gear or slit the existing one and mount alongside and tension one against the other.  This is a classic way of removing backlash.  You could add a belleville washer too to make it smoother.</p>
<p>Please note that this suggestion is offered without me having ANY knowledge of the available local space or mounting of the rack.  The local features may make this kind of idea easy&#8230;or, indeed, impossible! :)</p>
<p>Often anti-backlash gears have two pinions side by side with a spring torquing them together so that&#8217;s, yet, another possibility.</p>
<p>I&#8217;d be interested to know if there is sufficient space and features which would make the twin rack suggestion possible.  The answer might influence my Mini-Mill purchase decision.</p>
<p>Finally, I&#8217;ve talked to UK suppliers of many many Mini-Mills and they say that they hear of few problems of &#8216;head dropping&#8217; so maybe some folk just get used to a set operating procedure as a work around.</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
<p>Frank</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Paul in Pittsfield</title>
		<link>http://www.machinistblog.com/the-mini-mill-head-drop-problem/comment-page-1/#comment-526</link>
		<dc:creator>Paul in Pittsfield</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Dec 2009 21:19:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.machinistblog.com/?p=82#comment-526</guid>
		<description>I arrived at essentially the same analysis and solution about a year ago. My solution was to install a 100 lb. (force)  air spring, which forces the head up, taking up all of the play in the Z-axis mechanisms.  
See: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/files/Airspring.pdf

BUT...
Before I was able to install the air spring, my technique was to provide the same effect myself, using the 3-spoke drill press (DP) downfeed handle.  Let&#039;s assume you&#039;ll need more than one pass to get to depth.  Here&#039;s the drill...
1) Bring the head down close to where you&#039;re going to make the first pass (say, 1/4&quot; high), lock the Z-gib, and engage the &quot;fine feed.&quot;
2) Apply UPWARD force with the DP handle while unlocking the Z-gib.
3) Maintain that upward force while turning the fine-feed knob clockwise to bring the head down to cutting depth.
4) Maintain that upward force while locking the Z-gib.  (Any axis that doesn&#039;t need to move should be locked while making a cut.)
5) Let go of the DP handle (whew!) and make the cut. 
6) Z-gib is still locked.  Re-apply the upward force with the DP handle and take up any slack that may have developed in the fine-feed gear train using the knob.
7) Maintain the upward force and unlock the Z-gib.
8) Go to step 3.

It&#039;s tedious, but it works.

Paul in Pittsfield</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I arrived at essentially the same analysis and solution about a year ago. My solution was to install a 100 lb. (force)  air spring, which forces the head up, taking up all of the play in the Z-axis mechanisms.<br />
See: <a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/files/Airspring.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/files/Airspring.pdf</a></p>
<p>BUT&#8230;<br />
Before I was able to install the air spring, my technique was to provide the same effect myself, using the 3-spoke drill press (DP) downfeed handle.  Let&#8217;s assume you&#8217;ll need more than one pass to get to depth.  Here&#8217;s the drill&#8230;<br />
1) Bring the head down close to where you&#8217;re going to make the first pass (say, 1/4&#8243; high), lock the Z-gib, and engage the &#8220;fine feed.&#8221;<br />
2) Apply UPWARD force with the DP handle while unlocking the Z-gib.<br />
3) Maintain that upward force while turning the fine-feed knob clockwise to bring the head down to cutting depth.<br />
4) Maintain that upward force while locking the Z-gib.  (Any axis that doesn&#8217;t need to move should be locked while making a cut.)<br />
5) Let go of the DP handle (whew!) and make the cut.<br />
6) Z-gib is still locked.  Re-apply the upward force with the DP handle and take up any slack that may have developed in the fine-feed gear train using the knob.<br />
7) Maintain the upward force and unlock the Z-gib.<br />
8) Go to step 3.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s tedious, but it works.</p>
<p>Paul in Pittsfield</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Rob</title>
		<link>http://www.machinistblog.com/the-mini-mill-head-drop-problem/comment-page-1/#comment-524</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Dec 2009 16:00:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.machinistblog.com/?p=82#comment-524</guid>
		<description>Yes.  It&#039;s costs about $40 and is suppose to be pretty easy to install.  It&#039;s one of the most popular mods for the mill, although I haven&#039;t installed it yet. 

   http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2258&amp;category=879658189</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes.  It&#8217;s costs about $40 and is suppose to be pretty easy to install.  It&#8217;s one of the most popular mods for the mill, although I haven&#8217;t installed it yet. </p>
<p>   <a href="http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2258&#038;category=879658189" rel="nofollow">http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2258&#038;category=879658189</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

