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MachinistBlog.com

Plans, projects and how-to's for home machinists

Wire Rack Attack!

This short video shows a simple low-cost method for organizing small reels of wire.  I found it on Makezine.com’s blog, which recently featured a couple of our articles.  One was Mikey’s contest winning essay and the other was Nate’s short article about some free plans for a Watt-style steam governor.

I’ve been working very hard lately at reorganizing my workshop and getting rid of stuff that I don’t need or rarely use.  I really need to make more space because I now have two lathes, two mills and a couple of friends who have been coming over to use them.

Installing a Drill Press Chuck

Properly installing a drill chuck on your drill press requires you to pay attention to a few simple details.  Done well, your chuck will be accurate and will stay put until you remove it.

Drill presses and many other machine tools use Morse tapers to enable the user to attach a wide variety of attachments to the machine via an arbor having a Morse taper to fit the machine and an opposing taper to fit the accessory to be attached. For a drill chuck this opposing taper is typically a Jacobs taper.  An accurate arbor is very important so buy one you can trust; Albrecht and Jacobs make good ones.

Fitting a male arbor taper into a matching female taper produces interference-fit joints that are very tight and accurate.  Once their contact surfaces are brought into intimate contact they will lock as long as their surfaces are burr-free and clean.  Since these tapers are ground to a high degree of precision they are also self-aligning.  When installed correctly the arbor will go in straight and stay there unless someone beats them out of alignment with multiple blows from a hammer during or after installation.

To install an arbor:

1.  Wipe the arbor and socket with a clean rag.  Don’t bother with solvents for now – we don’t want a lock yet.

2.  Inspect the socket and arbor and completely remove any burrs found with a diamond coated tool or fine file.  An Eze-Lap diamond hook sharpener works really well for removing burrs from a chuck taper.  Note that even new chucks and arbors can have burrs so don’t assume its okay because it is new.

If you gently spin the arbor in the socket any burrs will usually produce a bright line that is clearly seen.  If the bright line is on the arbor then the burr is on the chuck taper, and vice-versa.  Work on that burr until it is gone.

Smoothing a burr so the defect lies beneath the surface of the taper will not prevent a good fit as long the rest of the taper is untouched.

3.  Once all the burrs are gone use OOO steel wool or a Scotchbrite pad and lightly go over the taper and arbor to remove any invisible dirt or superficial oxidation; do this even with new arbors and chucks.

4.  Now use lacquer thinner or acetone on a lint-free rag (clean old T-shirts work) and clean the socket and male arbor surfaces; after this do not touch these surfaces with your hands.  Rubbing alcohol contains oil and won’t work well on tapers.

5.  Retract the jaws of the chuck into the body and place the nose of the chuck on a solid, clean, flat surface like an anvil or smooth level concrete, not your wooden work bench.  A sheet of paper laid down first will prevent marring the nose of the chuck.

6.  Slide the male arbor end into the chuck’s socket with a gentle twisting motion and it will self-align.  You can cock an arbor when pushing it straight in – trust me.

7.  Position a piece of wood over the end of the arbor and use a steel hammer to deliver a single firm tap straight down onto the end of the arbor.  You do not need to hit it with an overhand, powerful blow – just a firm tap, please.  With the chuck sitting on an unyielding surface this simple tap is all that is necessary to seat the arbor.  Try to resist hitting it more than once. If the arbor and socket were clean and burr-free that arbor will stay in there until you take it out, and it will run true.

To install the chuck into the drill press you must do the same prep work as above.  Move the table out of the way so you can work.  Slide the chuck (jaws still retracted) and arbor into the socket with a gentle twist and, protecting the nose of the chuck with a piece of wood, deliver a single firm tap to the nose of the chuck.

Your chuck is now installed and should stay there until you need to remove it.  When you do need to remove it, it will come out easily.

Now let’s go make some chips!

Mikey
September 2010

Free Plans: Marconett Engineering’s “David” Steam Engine

"David" Steam Engine by Marconett Engineering

Marconett Engineering sells plans for a variety of model steam engines that are made from readily available “barstock” instead of castings.  They also have a set of free plans and some very helpful construction notes for a nice oscillating steam engine. You can find them near the bottom of their web page.

Alan Marconett designed and made the engine for his nephew.  A slightly different version of it was published in the first issue of “Model Engine Builder” in March 2005

Restoring a Craftsman 15″ Drill Press

Craftsman 15-inch Drill Press

This is another excellent article by Mikey, a frequent contributor to MachinistBlog.com and winner of our “Machining Metal as a Hobby” contest.

The Craftsman 15″ Drill Press, Model 137.229150, is a floor model commonly found in many home shops.  Made by Rexon of Taiwan for Sears, Grizzly and others it is a typical consumer grade drill press.  When new this machine is quite functional and if you use it to drill holes in wood and the occasional piece of metal then this drill press will give you years of service.  However, if you are a metal worker and need more accuracy in your machine it’s a whole other ball game.

The accuracy of these machines when new is not too bad but in a few short years mine developed significant run out, with 0.003″ total indicator run out (TIR) at the spindle and double that at the chuck.  That may not seem too bad but let me tell you, 0.006″ of run out at the chuck is enough to visibly see the bit wobbling!  My spindle bearings had developed play that I could hear and feel and I knew it was time to do something about it.

While it may appear to be daunting it turns out that restoring it is not difficult.  However, it does require access to a hydraulic press and a puller for the spindle pulley so take that into consideration.  Other than these tools no special tooling is required beyond that found in the typical home shop.  If you or your friends don’t own a hydraulic press all machine shops and most auto repair shops do; the cost to press the bearings off and on should be minimal.

If we consider where run out could come from it will likely be the spindle assembly, the arbor or the chuck.  The spindle assembly is basically the drive sleeve that drives, supports and guides the spindle at the top, the solid spindle itself, and the four bearings that support these components.  I suppose the quill could contribute but unfortunately there is no provision for improving the accuracy of the quill so it’s a moot point.

The manual does not list part numbers for the above components but you can order them from the Sears Parts Direct website at reasonable cost using their illustrated parts breakdown.  I suggest replacing the spindle, the drive sleeve and all four bearings at this time.

I also suggest you obtain precision after market bearings instead of using the OEM bearings.  You will need 3 each 6204ZZ and 1 each 6203ZZ.  I chose to replace one of the 6204ZZ bearings with a 6204-2RS; this bearing is sealed and resides at the bottom of the quill where it is exposed to chips and cutting fluid.  All of these bearings are available from your local supplier but are cheaper on eBay.  I prefer to use Nachi bearings for their quality but this is a personal choice.

If/when I need to rebuild my drill press again I will use an angular contact bearing to replace the lower quill bearing; the near equivalent for the 6204-2RS is the slightly longer 5204-2RS.  Note that I have NOT done this yet so I’m not sure if the bearing would protrude a few millimeters.  If it did you could chuck the quill in the lathe and bore the bearing recess deeper, or live with a little protrusion.  Only the lower bearing needs to be an angular contact bearing; radial bearings are fine for the upper spindle bearing and drive sleeve.  Why an angular contact bearing?

Angular contact bearings are designed to take both axial and radial loads, unlike radial bearings which are made for radial loads only.  Consider that when using a drill press to push a drill into a work piece both axial and radial forces are at work.  Sort of makes you wonder what the designer was thinking, doesn’t it?  Take a look at a good American drill press, like a Clausing, and you’ll find an angular contact bearing at the end of the spindle.

The chuck arbor is another potential source of run out and I typically change it to a new Albrecht or Jacobs arbor when installing a new chuck.  The OEM spindle requires a #2 Morse Taper.

Two precision drill chucks, an Albrecht keyless chuck and a Jacobs Super-Chuck 14N

If you are using the OEM chuck for woodworking or general use then it may suffice.  However, I would consider replacing it if you need to drill a precision hole.  You can use a keyed chuck, like the Jacobs Super-Chuck 14N on the right, or a keyless chuck like the very accurate Albrecht on the left.  Both are far more accurate than your drill press will ever be and can be had on eBay at reasonable cost.  If I could only have one chuck I would choose the Albrecht for the obvious convenience and accuracy it provides.

In summary, we are going to replace the parts in the drive train that could be causing run out and consider replacing the arbor and chuck, which are additional sources of potential run out.

Okay, let’s get this thing apart!  As always, please work carefully and proceed at your own risk.

Teardown

  • Use your arbor wedge to knock out the arbor and chuck.  If you don’t have one you can make one from 1/8″ thick mild steel.
  • Remove the light bulb from its socket.
  • Loosen the two set screws that hold the head to the column and move the head to your work bench.  It is heavy so try to have another person assist you if possible.
  • Open the belt cover and remove the belts.  Now remove the nut at the top of the spindle – this is a LH thread.  You can insert the arbor wedge into the slot in the quill to hold the spindle still.
  • Remove the spindle pulley.  You will need a pulley puller for this.
  • Remove the quill.

    • Loosen the quill adjusting set screw just to the right of the spring.
    • On the left side of the head find the quill return spring assembly.  It has two nuts; the outer one is a jam nut.  Remove the jam nut.
    • The manual recommends that you place a screwdriver into one of the slots to control the spring as you release tension but I just used a gloved hand to grab hold of the spring housing and, while controlling the spring tension (turn the housing slightly CCW), remove the nut.  The tension is not that strong and is released in about a single turn.  It will look like this when removed [photo 4].
    • Turn the feed handle and catch the quill as it drops out. Continue reading Restoring a Craftsman 15″ Drill Press